UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  PUBLICATIONS. 

COLLEGE  OF  AGRICULTURE. 

AGRICULTURAL  EXPERIMENT  STATION. 


THE  BEST  WINE  GRAPES  EOR  CALIFORNIA.— PRUNING  YOUNG 
VINES.— PRUNING  THE  SULTANINA. 


By  F.  T.  BIOLETTI. 


An  ideal  vine  at  second  winter  pruning. 

BULLETIN    No.    193. 

(Berkeley,  Cal.,  November,  1907.) 


SACRAMENTO: 

:     :     :     superintendent  state  printing. 
1907. 


BENJAMIN  IDE  WHEELER.  Ph.D.,  LL.D.,   President  of  the  University. 


EXPERIMENT     STATION     STAFF. 

E    J.   WICKSON,   M.A..    Director  and  Horticulturist. 

E.   W.  HILGARD.   Ph.D..  LL.D..  Chemist. 

W.    A.    SETCHELL.   Ph.D.,   Botanist. 

ELWOOD  MEAD.  M.S..  C.E.,  Irrigation  Engineer. 

C.   W.   WOODWORTH,  M.S.,  Entomologist. 

R.     H.    LOUGHRIDGE,    Ph.D.,    Agricultural    Geologist    and    Soil    Physicist.       {Soils, 

Alkali.) 
M.  E.  JAFFA,  M.S..  Xutrition  Expert,  in  charge  of  the  Poultry  Station. 
G.  W.  SHAW.  M.A..  Ph.D.,  Agricultural  Technologist,  in  charge  of  Cereal  Stations. 
GEORGE  E.  COLBY,  M.S.,  Chemist.      (Fruits,  Waters,  Insecticides.) 
RALPH  E.  SMITH,  B.S.,  Plant  Pathologist  and,  Superintendent  of  Southern  California 

Pathological   Laboratory  and  Experiment   Station. 
A.  R.  WARD,  B.S.A.,  D.V.M.,   Veterinarian  and  Bacteriologist. 

E.  W.  MAJOR.   B.Agr.,  Animal  Industry  and  Manager  of  University  Farm. 

F.  T.   BIOLETTI,   M.S.,   Viticulturist.      (Grapes,   Wine  and  Zymology.) 
H.  M.  HALL,  M.S.,  Assistant  Botanist. 

H.   J.  QUAYLE,  A.B.,  Assistant  Entomologist. 

W.    T.    CLARKE,    B.S.,    Assistant    Horticulturist    and    Superintendent    of    University 

Extension  in  Agriculture. 
JOHN  S.   BURD,  B.S.,  Chemist,  in  charge  of  Fertilizer  Control. 
C.  M.  HARING,  D.V.M.,  Assistant  Veterinarian  and  Bacteriologist. 

J.    W.    MILLS,    Assistant    Horticulturist,     {      CUrus  Experiment  station,  Riverside. 

T.   F.   HUNT,   B.S.,      "  "  ) 

E.   B.   BABCOCK,   B.S.,  Assistant  Plant  Pathologist. 

E.  H.  SMITH,  M.S.,  Assistant  Plant  Pathologist. 

H.   J.   RAMSEY",  M.S.,  Assistant  Plant  Pathologist,  )     Southern  California  Pathologi- 

C.    O.    SMITH,    M.S.,  "  "  "  )         cal  Laboratory.     Whittier. 

R.  E.  MANSELL,  Assistant  in  Horticulture,  in  charge  of  Central  Station  Grounds. 

GEO.   W.   LYONS,   B.S.,   Assistant  in  Soil  Laboratory. 

RALPH  BENTON,  B.S.,  Assistant  in  Entomology. 

A    J.   GAUMNITZ,  M.S.,  Assistant  in  Cereal  Investigations.  ^ 

HANS  C.  HOLM,  B.S.,  Assistant  in  Zymology. 

P.   L.  McCREARY,  B.S.,  Laboratory  Assistant  in  Fertilizer  Control. 

C.  WESTERGAARD,    B.S.,  Assistant  in  Farm  Mechanics.. 

M   E    STOVER,  B.S.,  Assistant  in  Agricultural  Chemical  Laboratory. 
[AEL  CORR,  M.A.,  Assistant  in  Cereal  Laboratory. 

D.  R.  HOAGLAND,  A.B.,  Assistant  in  Agricultural  Chemical  Laboratory. 
D    L    BUNNELL,  Clerk  to  the  Director. 


TUOHY,  Patron,  I  Tulare  Substation,  Tulare. 

J.   T.   BEARSS,   Foreman,  \ 

J.   W.   ROPER,   Patron,  )  University  Forestry  Station,  Chico. 

E    C    MILLER,    In   charge,        ) 

I' "Iron,  I  University  Forestry  Station,  Santa  Monica. 

J     [NGHAM,    Foreman,         ) 

J       HUNTLEY,     Foreman     of     California     Poultry     Experiment     Station, 

The  Station  publications  (Reports  and  Bulletins),  so  long  as  avail- 
able, mil  be  sent  to  any  citizen  of  the  Stale  on  application. 


THE  BEST  WINE  GRAPES  FOR  CALIFORNIA. 


By  F.  T.  BIOLETTI. 


The  question  is  often  asked:  "What  are  the  best  wine  grapes  for 
California?"  It  is  a  very  difficult  question  to  answer.  If  we  modify 
it  and  ask,  "What  wine  grape  is  it  most  advisable  to  plant?"  the  diffi- 
culty is  lessened  but  not  removed.  The  answer  will  depend  greatly  on 
the  point  of  view.  For  the  grape-grower  it  is  one  thing,  for  the  wine- 
maker  another,  for  the  consumer  still  another,  and  for  the  good  of  the 
industry  at  large  a  compromise  of  all  three. 

For  the  grape-grower  who  sells  his  grapes  for  so  much  a  ton  what- 
ever the  quality,  the  question  resolves  itself  into,  "  Which  is  the  heaviest 
bearer?" 

For  the  consumer  the  question  means  either  "What  grape  will  pro- 
duce good  wine  at  the  minimum  cost?"  or  "What  grape  will  produce 
the  best  wine  irrespective  of  cost?"  according  to  the  kind  of  consumer 
he  happens  to  be.  As  quantity  and  quality  are  to  a  great  extent 
inversely  proportionate,  these  views  are  widely  divergent. 

For  the  wine-maker  the  question  is  a  little  more  complicated,  but 
may  be  stated  essentially  as,  "What  grape  can  I  handle  with  the  most 
profit?"  This  profit  will  depend  on  the  difference  between  the  price  he 
is  forced  to  pay  the  grower  for  grapes  and  that  which  he  can  persuade 
the  consumer  to  pay  him  for  wine.  For  one  class  of  consumers  he 
must  get  cheap  grapes,  for  the  other  he  can  afford  to  pay  almost  any 
price,  providing  they  are  of  the  right  quality. 

For  the  good  of  the  industry  at  large  it  is  desirable  that  varieties 
should  be  planted  which  will  produce  as  large  a  crop  as  is  compatible 
with  such  quality  as  will  maintain  and  extend  the  markets  for  our  wine. 
These  markets  are  varied  in  character.  For  some,  cheapness  is  the 
essential  factor;  for  others,  quality.  Cheap  wines  can  be  produced  with 
profit  only  from  heavy-bearing  varieties  grown  in  rich  soil;  wines  of  the 
highest  quality  only  from  fine  varieties  grown  on  hillsides  or  other 
locations  where  the  crops  are  necessarily  less.  It  is  therefore  unwise  to 
plant  poor-bearing  varieties  in  the  rich  valleys  where  no  variety  can 
produce  a  fine  wine.  It  is  equally  unwise  to  plant  common  varieties  on 
the  hill  slopes  of  the  Coast  Ranges  where  no  variety  will  produce  heavy 
crops.  The  vineyards  of  the  San  Joaquin,  Sacramento,  and  other 
valleys  can  not  compete  with  the  vineyards  of  the  Coast  Ranges  in 
quality,  and  the  latter  can  not  compete  with  the  former  in  cheapness. 

Each  region  has  its  own  special  advantages  which,  if  properly  used, 
will  make  grape-growing  profitable  in  all,  and  instead  of  competing  each 


142  UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA       EXPERIMENT    STATION. 

will  be  a  help  to  the  other.  The  danger  to  be  feared  by  the  grape- 
-  of  the  Coast  Ranges  from  the  production  of  dry  wine  in  the 
interior  is  not  competition,  but  lies  in  the  bad  reputation  given  to 
California  wines  by  the  production  of  spoiled  and  inferior  wines.  If 
the  cheap  wines  of  the  valleys  are  uniformly  goo(J  and  sound  the  market 
for  the  high-priced  tine  wines  of  the  hills  will  increase,  and  large 
quantities  of  the  Coast  Range  wines  will  be  used  for  blending  with  the 
valley  wine-  to  give  them  the  acidity,  flavor,  and  freshness  which  they 
Lack. 

In  order  to  obtain  these  results  it  is  necessary  that  varieties  suited  to 
each  region  and  to  the  kind  of  wine  should  be  planted.  No  variety 
which  is  not  capable  of  yielding  from  5  to  8  tons  per  acre  in  the  rich 
valley  soils  or  from  1^  to  3  tons  on  the  hill  slopes  should  be  considered. 
On  the  other  hand,  no  variety  which  will  not  give  a  clean-tasting, 
agreeable  wine  in  the  valley  or  a  wine  of  high  quality  on  the  hills 
should  be  planted,  however  heavily  it  may  bear.  To  plant  heavy- 
bearing  inferior  varieties  such  as  Burger,  Feher  Szagos,  Charbono,  or 
Mataro  on  the  hills  of  Napa  or  Santa  Cruz  is  to  throw  away  the  chief 
advantage  of  the  location.  The  same  is  true  of  planting  poor-bearing 
varieties  such  as  Verdelho,  Chardonay,  Pinot,  or  Cabernet  Sauvignon 
in  the  plains  of  the  San  Joaquin. 

With  these  considerations  in  view,  the  following  suggestions  are  made 
for  planting  in  the  chief  regions  of  California: 

1.  Vineyard  for  Sweet    Wine  in  the  Interior    Valleys. — 

Red.                                          Proportion.  White.                                         Proportion. 

,ache \  Palomino \ 

Alicante  Bouschet \  Beba \ 

Tinta  Madeira \  Boal \ 

Tli"  Grenache  and  Alicante  Bouschet  are  heavy  bearers  with  short 
priming.  The  former  naturally  takes  a  port  flavor  and  the  latter 
insures  sufficient  color.  The  Tinta  Madeira,  when  pruned  properly, 
bears  well  and  will  increase  the  quality  of  the  port  wine. 

The  Palomino  is  one  of  the  heaviest  and  most  regular  bearers  grown 
in  California  and  is  peculiarly  suited  for  sherry  making.  It  is  the 
principal  grape  of  the  Spanish  sherry  district.  The  Beba  bears  nearly 
or  quit'  as  well  as  the  Palomino  and  is  of  rather  better  quality.  Both 
with  short  pruning.  The  Boal  bears  good  crops  and  gives  a  sweet 
wine  of  high  quality. 

2.  Vineyard  for  /Jnj    Wine  in   thr   Interior   Valleys.— 

Proportion.  White.  Proportion. 

Vz \  Burger i 

. £  West's  White  Prolific..- £ 

I  Vernaccia Sarda }    . 

The   Valdepefiae    has   been   growing  for  nearly  twenty  years  at  the 
re  Experiment  Station,  and  has  always  given  regular  and  good  crops 


Bulletin  193.  THE  BEST  WINE  GRAPES  FOR  CALIFORNIA.  143 

with  short  pruning.  The  dry  red  wine  made  from  it  has  been  in  every 
way  satisfactory  and  much  superior  to  that  made  from  Bouschet,  Zin- 
fandel,  or  any  of  the  varieties  usually  grown  in  the  valley,  and 
approaches  more  nearly  than  any  other  variety  the  wines  of  the  cooler 
localities.  This  variety  has  been  planted  to  some  extent  in  the  cooler 
localities,  where  it  is  completely  out  of  place.  In  Napa  its  bearing  is 
unsatisfactory  and  its  wine  harsh.  The  vine  needs  a  hot  climate  to 
bring  out  its  best  qualities.  The  Lagrain  and  St.  Macaire  are  valuable 
on  account  of  their  intense  color,  which  at  Tulare  is  equal  to  that  of  the 
Bouschets  and  is  more  stable.  The  St.  Macaire  is  particularly  recom- 
mended on  account  of  its  high  acidity,  which  is  extremely  useful  for 
the  region.  The  Gros  Mansenc  retains  its  acid  even  better  than  the 
St.  Macaire,  and  is  also  deeply  colored,  but  it  has  not  borne  quite  so  well. 
The  Burger  has,  fortunately,  been  planted  extensively  in  the  hotter 
parts  of  the  interior,  and  probably  no  better  choice  could  be  made  for 
the  production  of  a  cheap,  light,  neutral  dry  white  wine  in  that  region. 
Its  acidity,  which  is  excessive  in  the  coast  counties,  is  normal  or  even 
low  in  the  interior.  For  this  reason,  and  in  order  to  give  a  little  more 
character,  it  should  be  blended  with  such  grapes  as  the  West's  White 
Prolific  and  the  Vernaccia  Sarda,  which  retain  their  acidity  at  Tulare 
better  than  any  other  white  grapes  tested. 

3.    Vineyard  for  Dry  Wine  in  the  Coast  Counties, — 

Red.                                           Proportion.  White.                                       Proportion. 

Petite  Sirah |  Semillon i 

Beclan.   £  Colombar i 

Cabernet  Sauvignon |  Sauvignon  blanc '_ £ 

The  conditions  of  soil  and  climate  in  the  hills  and  valleys  of  the 
Coast  Ranges  are  so  varied  that  it  is  much  more  difficult  to  give  recom- 
mendations that  will  be  of  general  use  than  in  the  case  of  the  interior 
valleys.  In  some  parts  of  some  of  the  valleys  the  soil  is  so  rich  and 
productive  that  it  is  possible  to  grow  grapes  as  cheaply  as  in  the 
interior.  The  grapes  recommended  for  the  interior,  however,  would  not 
in  most  cases  be  suitable  on  the  Coast,  owing  to  the  difference  in  climate. 
As  a  rule,  the  grapes  which  are  suitable  to  the  hill  slopes  will  do  well  in 
the  valley,  making  up  in  quantity  what  they  lose  in  quality. 

Of  the  many  scores  of  red  varieties  which  have  been  widely  grown  in 
this  region,  the  Petite  Sirah  has  undoubtedly  given  the  most  generally 
satisfactory  results.  Some  growers  are  dissatisfied  with  its  bearing, 
but  most  report  that  it  produces  as  much  as  the  Zinfandel.  Ungrafted, 
it  requires  long  pruning.  Its  wine  is  of  excellent  quality,  but  apt  to 
be  somewhat  harsh.  This  harshness  can  be  avoided  by  careful  wine- 
making  and  by  blending  with  a  smooth  variety  such  as  the  Beclan. 
The  finest  red  wines  which  have  ever  been  made  in  California  are  the 
product  of  the  Cabernet  Sauvignon.     This  variety,  unfortunately,  has 


144  UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION. 

been  rejected  almost  everywhere  on  account  of  its  light  crops.  Very 
satisfactory  crops,  however,  can  be  obtained  if  care  is  taken  in  selecting 
cuttings  for  planting  and  a  suitable  system  of  pruning  adopted.  This 
variety,  like  most  others,  moreover,  bears  better  when  grafted  on  a  suit- 
able resistant  stock.  It  is  very  much  to  be  desired  that  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  this  variety  should  be  planted  in  all  the  coast  vineyards 
which  are  capable  of  producing  a  dry  red  wine  of  high  quality. 

No  white  grape  has  given  better  results  in  both  crop  and  quality 
than  the  Semillon.  The  Colombar  (sometimes  called  the  Sauvignon 
vert)  has  also  proved  itself  a  regular  bearer,  and,  while  not  of  such 
high  quality  as  the  Semillon,  it  blends  very  well  with  that  variety  and 
serves  to  modify  its  aroma,  which  is  sometimes  excessive.  The  Sau- 
vignon blanc  increases  the  quality  of  the  wine,  but  like  the  Cabernet 
Sauvignon  requires  careful  cutting,  selection  and  pruning  to  give 
satisfactory  crops. 

4.    Vineyard  for  Dry  Wine  in  the  cooler  parts  of  the  Coast  Counties. — 

Red.  Proportion.  White.  Proportion. 

Beclan |  Franken  Riesling f 

Blue  Portuguese ^  Johannisberg  Riesling ..    ...  ^ 

In  certain  parts  of  the  coast  counties,  owing  to  the  frequent  occurrence 
of  ocean  fogs,  many  varieties  of  vines  do  not  ripen  their  fruit  properly. 
By  a  careful  selection  of  varieties,  however,  good  crops  of  well-ripened 
grapes  may  be  obtained.  It  is  in  these  localities  that  the  finest  light 
wines,  those  most  nearly  resembling  the  wines  of  the  Rhine,  can  be 
produced. 

The  Beclan  has  shown  itself  especially  suited  to  this  region,  and  has 
the  great  advantage  of  being  very  resistant  to  oidium.  The  Blue 
Portuguese  is  a  good  bearer,  ripens  easily,  and  blended  with  Beclan 
gives  a  good  wane  of  Burgundy  type.  The  best  Riesling  wines  are 
grown  near  the  coast  and,  undoubtedly,  profitable  vineyards  of  the 
Rhine  varieties  can  be  grown  in  this  region  if  proper  methods  of  grape- 
growing  and  wine-making  are  adopted. 

Undoubtedly  there  are  many  excellent  varieties  of  grapes  that  could 
be  grown  with  profit  wmich  are  not  mentioned  in  the  foregoing  lists. 
The  varieties  mentioned  are  simply  those  which  have  given  evidence  of 
being  most  generally  adapted  to  the  more  usual  conditions.  Under 
special  conditions  other  varieties  should  be  added  to  or  substituted  for 
named.  In  planting  a  new7  vineyard  it  would  be  well  ofien  to 
choose  those  varieties  which  are  best  able,  by  blending,  to  correct  the 
defects  of  the  varieties  already  growing  in  the  district  If  the  bulk  of 
the  red  grapes  are  deficient  in  color,  it  would  be  well  to  plant  a  larger 
proportion  of  deeply  colored  varieties.  If  most  of  the  white  grapes  of 
the  region  are  of  poor  quality,  lacking  in  character,  flavor,  or  acidity,  a 
:    planting  of  the  finer   varieties  might  be  advisable.     It  is  good 


Bulletin  193.  THE  BEST  WINE  GRAPES  FOR  CALIFORNIA.  145 

policy  to  plant  something  that  has  not  already  been  planted  in  too 
large  quantities,  providing  it  is  something  suitable  and  for  which  there 
will  be  a  demand.  Moreover,  a  larger  number  of  kinds  ripening  at 
different  times  would  be  a  great  convenience  in  a  large  vineyard,  by 
allowing  the  gathering  of  the  grapes  to  extend  over  a  longer  period. 

Finally,  a  few  suggestions  as  to  what  "  not  to  do." 

Don't  plant  Mataro,  Feher  Szagos,  Charbono,  Lenoir,  or  any  variety 
which  makes  a  poor  wine  everywhere. 

Don't  plant  Burger,  Green  Hungarian,  Mourastel,  Grenache,  or  any 
common  heavy-bearing  varieties  on  the  hill  slopes  of  the  Coast  Ranges. 
Vineyards  in  such  situations  must  produce  fine  wines,  or  they  will  not 
be  profitable. 

Don't  plant  Chardonay,  Pinot,  Cabernet  Sauvignon,  Malbec,  or  any 
light-bearing  varieties  in  rich  valley  soils.  No  variety  will  make  fine, 
high-priced  wine  in  such  situations,  and  heavy  bearers  are  essential  to 
the  production  of  cheap  wine. 

Don't  plant  Zinfandel,  Alicante  Bouschet,  or  any  of  the  varieties 
which  have  already  been  planted  in  large  quantities,  unless  one  is  sure 
that  the  conditions  of  his  soil  and  locality  are  peculiarly  favorable  to 
these  varieties  and  will  allow  him  to  compete  successfully. 


WINE   GRAPES   RECOMMENDED 

FOR   CALIFORNIA. 

For  Coast  Counties. 

Red   Wine  Grapes. 

White  Wine  Grapes. 

1.  Petite  Sirah. 

1.  Semillon. 

2.  Cabernet  Sauvignon. 

2.  Colombar  (Sauvignon  vert). 

3.  Beclan. 

3.  Sauvignon  blanc. 

4.  Tannat. 

4.  Franken  Riesling. 

5.  Serine. 

5.  Johannisberger. 

6.  Mondeuse. 

6.  Trarniner.    • 

7.  Blue  Portuguese. 

7.  Peverella. 

8.  Verdot. 

For  Interior 

Valleys. 

Red   Wine  Grapes. 

White   Wine  Grapes. 

1.   Valdepenas. 

1.  Burger. 

2.  St.  Macaire. 

2.  West's  White  Proline. 

3.  Lagrain. 

3.  Vernaccia  Sarda. 

4.  Gros  Mansenc. 

4.  Marsanne. 

5.  Barbera. 

5.  Folle  blanche. 

6.  Refosco. 

7.  Pagadebito. 

For  Sweet 

Winks. 

Red  Grapes. 

White  Grapes. 

1.  Grenache. 

1.  Palomino. 

2.  Alicante  Bouschet. 

2.  Beba. 

3.  Tinta  Madeira. 

3.  Boal. 

4.  California  Black  Malvoisie. 

4.  Perruno. 

5.  Monica. 

5.  Mantuo. 

6.  Mission. 

6.  Mourisco  branco. 

7.  Mourastel. 

7.  Pedro  Ximenez. 

8.  Tinta  Amarella. 

146 


UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA       K.\  1'KKI  M  ENT    STATION'. 


PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  OF  YOUNG  VINES. 

The  first  two  or  three  years  of  the  life  of  a  vineyard  are  perhaps  the 
most  important  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  profit  and  satisfaction  to 
be  obtained    from   it   later.     Vines  which   are  neglected  or  improperly 

treated  in  youth  can  never  be  given  that  shape 
which  is  indispensable  for  the  maximum  returns 
and  the  minimum  labor. 

Thousands  of  acres  of  new  vineyard  have  been 
planted  during  the  last  two  years,  and,  without 
attempting  to  write  a  complete  treatise  on  vine 
J  f.    pruning,   a  few   practical  suggestions  regarding 
I\\l  Y/lf    the  treatment  of  young  vines  should  be  useful. 

Whatever  the  variety  of  vine  and  whatever  the 
system  of  pruning  to  be  ultimately  adopted,  the 
treatment  for  the  first  two  and  even  three  years 
is  practically  identical. 

FIRST   YEAR. 

Making  Cuttings. — The  considerations  which 
should  govern  us  in .  the  choice  and  making  of 
cuttings  have  been  given  in  Circular  No.  26,  of 
this  Station,  "  Selection  and  Preparation  of  Vine- 
Cuttings."  The  mechanical  part  only  is  reviewed 
here. 

The  cuttings  should  be  made  from  well-ripened 
canes  of  medium  thickness  and  of  greater  or  less 
length,  according  to  the  climate  and  soil  of  the 
vineyard  in  which  they  are  to  be  planted.  The 
range  will  be  from  10  to  18  inches. 

Cuttings  are  most  conveniently  made  by  means 
of  ordinary  one-hand  pruning  shears.  In  mak- 
ing them,  the  lower  cut  should  be  made  just 
below  a  bud,  and  the  upper  just  above  a  bud. 
These  cuts  should  be  made  as  near  the  bud  as  is 
possible  without  danger  of  destroying  or  remov- 
ing the  diaphragm  (see  Fig.  2). 

It  is  best  to  remove  the    upper    bud,  either 

when  making  the  cuttings  or  afterwards,  though  this  is  not  absolutely 

The  bud  from  which  growth  is  expected  is  the  second  from 

the  top.     The   reason  for  Leaving  the  internode  above  is  to  protect  the 

.;,j  t,;|f]  ;))J,|  fc0  insure  its   strong  growth.     It  is  for  this  reason  that 

Lgm    should   be  left.       If   removed,    the   pith  in  the  upper 


FIG. 


L.    Properly 
cutl 


made 


Bulletin  193. 


PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  OF  YOUNG  VINES. 


147 


internode  will  be  exposed  to  alternate  wetting  and  drying,  and  may- 
decay,  thus  weakening  or  killing  the  bud  below. 

In  planting,  the  cutting  should  be  placed  with  just  one  bud  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  as  indicated  by  the  dotted  line  in  Fig.  1.  It  is  a 
great  mistake  to  leave  more  than  one  bud  out  of  the  ground,  as  this 
increases  the  danger  of  drying  out. 

Pruning  Rooted  Vines.— A  young  rooted  vine  before  planting  should 
have  all  its  roots  shortened  to  from  4  to  6  inches,  according  to  their 
vigor  (see  Fig.  3,  A,  B,  'C).  If  the  soil  has  been  very  deeply  plowed 
and  it  is  desired  to  plant  the  vines  with  a  dibble,  there  is  no  objection 
to  cutting  back  the  roots  to  stubs  i  of  an  inch  long  (see  Fig.  3,  D). 
Such  a  vine  will  make  better  growth  in  deeply  prepared  soil  than  one 
with  longer  roots  planted  with  a  spade  in  shallow-plowed  soil. 

The  top  of  the  vine  should  be  thinned  to  one  cane,  the  strongest  and 
most  upright  being  left.     This  cane  must  be  shortened  to  two  good  buds, 


iV.  Node. 


FIU.  2.    Structure  of  Vine  Cane. 
d.  Diaphragm.  I.    Internode 


P.  Pith. 


making  the  cut  close  to  an  internode,  as  in  making  cuttings  (see  Fig. 
3,  C,  D). 

The  pruning  of  rooted  bench  grafts  is  practically  the  same  as  that  of 
ordinary  rooted  vines,  though  the  cutting  back  of  the  single  cane  to  two 
buds  is  best  deferred  until  after  planting  and  just  as  the  buds  com- 
mence to  swell  (see  Fig.  3,  B).  This  affords  some  protection  to  the 
graft,  and  makes  it  less  likely  to  dry  out  before  the  sap  starts  and  the 
young  rootlets  are  formed.  All  scion  roots  (CR)  above  the  union  (U) 
and  all  suckers  (SS)  from  below  the  union  should  be  carefully  removed 
(Fig.  3,  A). 

During  the  summer  of  the  year  the  vines  are  planted,  no  pruning  or 
training  of  any  kind  is  needed  in  most  cases.  For  this  reason  it  is 
nearly  always  unnecessary  to  stake  the  vines  when  they  are  planted. 
The  only  exception  to  this  is  when  strong-rooted  vines  are  planted  in  a 
rich,  moist  soil  in  which  they  will  make  a  very  large  growth  the  first 
year.     In  this  case  it  is  desirable,  though  not  quite  necessary,  to  stake 


14s 


UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


the  vines  immediately  after  planting 

and  to  adopt  the  method  of  summer 

treatment    described    below    for    the 

second  year. 

In  most  cases  it  is  best  to  allow  all 

the    shoots    to    remain   to  feed  the  vine 

and   to  insure  a  good    root   growth    the 

first  year. 

Staking. — In  the  autumn  or  winter  fol- 
lowing planting,  the  vines  should  be 
staked,  either  before  or  after  pruning, 
but  in  any  case  some  time  before  the 
buds  start  in  the  spring. 


B  CD 

FIG.  3.    Methods  of  pruning  rooted  vines. 

Rooted  vine  (bench   graft)  before  pruning—  U, 

union.     N\  slock  suckers.     CR,  scion  root. 
Rooted  bench-graft  pruned  for  planting. 
I:  »oted  cutting  pruned  for  planting. 
Rooted  cutting  pruned  for  planting  with  dibble. 


Bulletin  193.  PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  OF  YOUNG  VINES.  149 

The  kind  of  stake  used  will  depend  on  the  variety  of  vine  and  on  the 
method  of  pruning  to  be  ultimately  adopted.  For  ordinary  short- 
pruning,  the  stake  should  be  of  such  length  that,  after  being  driven  into 
the  ground,  sufficient  will  be -below  the  surface  to  keep  it  firm  and  prevent 
its  being  loosened  by  the  force  of  the  wind  acting  on  the  vine  which  is 
tied  to  it,  and  sufficient  above  the  surface  to  extend  1  or  2  inches  above 
the  height  at  which  it  is  intended  to  head  the  vines.  It  should  be  from 
li  to  H  inches  square,  according  to  its  length. 

In  firm  ground,  for  small-growing  vines  such  as  Zinfandel,  a  stake 
li  by  li  inches  and  27  inches  long  will  be  sufficient.  This  will  allow 
15  inches  to  be  driven  into  the  ground  and  leave  12  inches  above, 
which  is  enough  for  vines  to  be  headed  at  10  inches.  If  the  ground  is 
loose  or  sandy  a  30-inch  stake  driven  18  inches  into  the  ground  will  be 
needed.  For  strong-growing  varieties,  such  as  Carignane  or  Tokay, 
especially  when  planted  in  rich  soil,  a  stake  H  by  \\  inches  and  36 
inches  long  will  be  necessary,  and  15  or  18  inches  of  this  should  be  left 
above  the  ground.  This  will  permit  the  heading  of  the  vines  at  15 
inches. 

If  the  vines  are  to  be  trellised  with  one  wire,  a  36-inch  stake  driven 
18  inches  into  the  ground  is  the  proper  length.  If  two  wires  are  to  be 
used,  a  48-inch  stake  will  be  needed,  leaving  30  inches  above  the 
surface. 

If  the  vines  are  to  be  pruned  long  and  the  canes  tied  to  the  stake,  a 
5-foot  stake  will  usualW  be  needed,  and  this  must  be  stronger,  2  by  2 
inches  square.     This  stake  should  be  driven  2  feet  into  the  ground. 

These  dimensions  are  all  smaller  than  are  usual  in  California,  but 
are  quite  sufficient  for  all  practical  purposes.  The  stake  should  be 
placed  1  to  2  inches  from  the  vine  on  the  side  opposite  to  the  prevailing 
heavy  winds.  The  force  of  the  wind  will  thus  keep  the  vine  pressed 
against  the  stake  and  the  tying  material  is  less  liable  to  break. 

First  Winter  Pruning. — In  California,  the  young  vines  may  be  pruned 
at  any  time  after  the  leaves  have  fallen,  except  in  sections  very  subject 
to  spring  frosts,  where  it  is  sometimes  advisable  to  defer  the  pruning 
until  after  the  top  buds  of  the  canes  start. 

The  way  the  vines  are  to  be  pruned  will  depend  altogether  on  the 
growth  they  have  made.  If  the  growth  has  been  small  the  tops  are 
pruned  exactly  like  rooted  vines  before  planting.  All  the  canes  are 
removed  entirely,  except  the  strongest,  and  this  is  cut  back  to  two  buds, 
as  in  Fig.  3,  C,  D  (see  Fig.  4,  a). 

Any  vines  which  have  made  a  strong  growth  and  possess  at  least  one 
cane  of  which  a  sufficient  length  is  well  ripened  may  be  pruned  for 
tying  up.  All  the  canes  are  removed  entirely,  except  the  strongest,  and 
this  is  cut  back  to  10, 15,  or  18  inches,  according  to  the  height  at  which 
it  is  intended  to  head  the  vine  (see  Fig.  5,  a).     The  top  cut  is  made 


150 


UNIVERSITY     OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION 


through  a  bud.  just  as  in  making  cuttings.  This  will  facilitate  tying 
up  and  insure  the  healthy  growth  of  the  top  bud. 

Sometimes,  even  when  the  vine  has  made  sufficient  growth,  the  canes 
are  prostrate  or  crooked  and  none  can  be  tied  up  straight  to  the  stake. 
In  this  case  the  vine  must  be  pruned  like  a  weak  vine — that  is,  thinned 
to  one  cane  and  this  cane  cut  back  to  two  buds. 

In  no  case  should  two  canes  of  any  length  be  left,  and  in  all  cases 
where  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  the  full  length  of  well-ripened  wood  for 
tying  up,  the  cane  should  be  cut  back  to  two  buds.  It  is  very  bad 
practice  to  leave  some  of  the  canes  of  intermediate  length,  as  this  causes 


FIG.  4.    Treatment  of  an  average  vine  during  second  season. 

a.  Winter  pruning. 

b.  Spring  pruning— removal  of  suckers  (S)  and  thinning  of  shoots  (W). 
C.  Summer  treatment— tying  to  stake  and  topping. 

the  vines  to  head  out  at  various  heights  and  produces  an  irregularity 
of  shape  which  can  never  be  remedied  and  which  interferes  with  regular 
pruning,  cultivation,  and  other  vineyard  work. 

The  idea  to  be  kept  in  mind  is  to  cut  back  each  winter  nearly  to  the 

ground — thai  is,  to  two  buds     until  a  cane  is  produced  with  a  length  of 

well-ripened  wood  and  good  buds  equal  to  the  height  at  which  the  vine 

be  headed.     It  is  very  important  that  this  cane  should  be  straight, 

healthy,  and  well-ripened,  as  it  is  from  it  that  the  trunk  of  the  mature 

develop-.      All   the  vines  on  which  a  cane  has  been   left  should  be 

fully  tied  up.     Two  tics  will  be  needed  in  most  cases.     A  half  hitch 

should    be  made  around   the  cane  below  the  swelling  left  by  the  bud 

which  has  been  removed,  and  the  cane  tied  firmly  to  the  top  of  the  stake. 


Bulletin  193.  PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  OF  YOUNG  VINES.  151 

Another  tie  is  made  about  half-way  down  the  stake.  The  lower  tie 
need  not  be  very  tight,  and  in  any  case  the  tying  material  should  not 
be  passed  completely  around  the  cane,  except  above  the  top  bud,  or 
the  vine  will  be  strangled  when  it  commences  to  grow  (see  Fig.  5,  a). 
Any  kind  of  string  or  twine,  sufficiently  strong  to  withstand  the 
pressure  of  the  growing  vine  in  a  heavy  wind,  may  be  used.  Binding- 
twine,  or  a  single  strand  of  good  baling  rope,  is  suitable.  No.  16  or  17 
galvanized  wire  is  preferred  by  some  and  is  better  than  string,  if  care 
is  taken  to  remove  the  bottom  ties  the  following  year  before  they 
strangle  the  vine. .  Wire  is  a  little  more  expensive  and  takes  a  little 
longer  to  put  on  than  string,  but  holds  the  vines  better  and  can  be  used 
for  several  years. 

SECOND    YEAR. 

Summer  Pruning. — The  treatment  during  the  second  and  third 
spring  and  summer  is  of  great  importance  to  the  future  welfare  of  the 
vine.  A  little  judicious  care  at  this  period  will  avert  many  troubles 
in  later  years.  It  will  be  necessary  to  go  over  the  vineyard  four  or 
five  times  to  do  the  suckering,  topping,  and  tying  which  are  necessary. 

The  shoots  starting  from  the  vines  which  have  been  cut  back  to  two 
buds  should  be  thinned  to  a  single  one.  This  thinning  should  be  done 
as  soon  as  possible  in  such  a  way  that  it  is  never  necessary  to  remove  a 
shoot  more  than  3  or  4  inches  long  (see  Fig.  4,  />).  If  the  thinning 
is  deferred  until  the  shoots  are  a  foot  or  more  long  the  vine  will  be 
weakened  by  the  removal  of  so  much  foliage.  If  the  thinning  cannot 
be  done  early,  it  is  better  not  to  do  it  at  all.  The  object  of  this  thinning 
is  to  throw  all  the  force  and  growth  of  the  vine  into  the  cane  which 
is  to  form,  finally,  the  trunk  of  the  vine.  If  it  is  done  too  late  not 
only  does  the  growth  not  go  into  this  cane,  but  the  vine  is  weakened 
so  much  that  this  cane  does  not  grow  so  wrell  as  it  would  have  done 
without  thinning. 

The  first  thinning  can  be  done  with  the  first  hoeing,  and  the  second 
with  the  suckering.  The  suckering  consists  of  the  removal  of  all  shoots 
which  come  from  below  the  ground.  These  also  should  be  removed  as 
early  as  practicable,  both  to  avoid  weakening  the  vine  by  the  removal 
of  mature  leaves  and  also  because  a  young  sucker  is  much  more  easily 
separated  from  the  vine  at  this  time.  Every  sucker  must  be  cut  or 
broken  off  at  the  point  where  it  originates.  If  a  little  piece  of  the  sucker 
is  left,  several  new  suckers  will  start  at  the  same  place.  The  more 
completely  the  suckering  is  done  during  the  first  two  years,  the  less 
trouble  in  this  respect  there  will  be  in  later  years.  This  is  particularly 
true  of  grafted  vines. 

A  few  weeks  after  the  first  thinning,  the  single  shoot1  which  has  been 
left  will  have  grown  10  or  15  inches.  At  this  length  it  should.be  tied 
up  to  the  stake  (see  Fig.  4,  c).     If  this  tying  is  neglected  or  deferred 


152 


UNIVERSITY     OF    CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


too  long,  a  heavy  wind  is  very  liable  to  break  off  the  whole  shoot.  A 
piece  of  string  tied  rather  Loosely  about  the  middle  of  the  shoot  is  all 
that  is  needed.  If  the  vines  are  to  be  headed  high  (18  inches)  another 
tie  near  the  top  of  the  stake  may  be  necessary  later. 

For  vines  which  are  making  only  a  moderate  growth  this  is  all  the 
treatment  needed  during  the  summer.  Strong-growing  vines  in  rich 
soil,  however,  should  be  topped. 

ping. — The  object  of  this  topping  is  to  force  the  shoot  to  send  out 
laterals  at  the  right  height  above  the  surface  of  the  soil,  to  be  used  as 


Treatment  ol  average  vine  during  the  third  season,  or  of  a  vigorous  vine  during  the  second. 

a.  Vine  pruned  to  one  cane  and  tied  to  stake. 

b.  Removal  of  suckers  (S)  and  lower  shoots  (W)  in  spring, 
o.  Vine  in  summer  at  time  of  pinching. 


-pur-  during  the  following  year.  This  topping  is  an  operation  which 
a  good  deal  of  judgment.  If  the  topping  is  done  too  soon, 
laterals  will  not  start,  but  a  new  terminal  shoot  wall  be  formed.  This 
j-  not  a  serious  defect,  however,  but  simply  necessitates  a  second  top- 
ping two  or  three  weeks  later.  Neither  will  the  laterals  start  if  the 
topping  Lfi  done  loo  Late,  or  if  they  start  they  will  not  mature,  and  the 
weakened  by  the  removal  of  foliage  without  any  compensating 
advantage. 

Until   experience   has   shown   the  proper  time  for  the   variety  and 
locality,  it  is  best   to  top   when    the   shoot  has  grown  to  from  8  to  12 
the  top  of  the  stake,  and  if  necessary  top  again  later. 


Bulletin  193.         PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  OF  YOUNG  VINES.  153 

The  shoot  should  be  topped  within  1  or  2  inches  of  the  top  of  the 
stake,  if  the  stakes  have  been  chosen  and  driven  as  advised  above 
(see  Fig.  4,  c).  This  will  insure  the  growth  of  laterals  just  where  they 
are  needed  for  the  next  winter  pruning. 

The  vines  on  which  a  cane  has  been  left  and  tied  up  during  the  pre- 
ceding winter  must  be  treated  a  little  differently.  The  removal  of 
underground  shoots  or  suckers  is  the  same.  Instead  of  thinning  out 
the  shoots  to  a  single  one,  as  for  the  vines  just  described,  all  the  shoots 
should  be  left  to  grow,  except  those  too  near  the  ground  (see  Fig.  5,  b). 

As  a  rule,  all  shoots  between  the  ground  and  the  middle  of  the  stakes 
should  be  taken  off.  It  is  even  more  important  that  this  should  be 
done  early  than  in  the  case  described  above.  If  the  lower  shoots  are 
allowed  to  become  large  and  then  removed,  not  only  is  the  vine  weak- 
ened by  the  removal  of  mature  leaves,  but  the  stem  of  the  vine  is 
suddenly  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  hot  sun  and  is  very  liable  to 
injury.  This  injury  does  not  show  by  a  peeling  off  of  the  bark  as  with 
fruit  trees,  but  by  a  general  weakening  and  dwarfing  of  the  vine. 

The  shoots  coming  from  the  upper  half  of  the  cane  are  to  form  the 
spurs  for  the  following  winter  pruning,  and  can  often  be  left  to  grow 
without  further  treatment. 

If  the  growth  is  very  rapid  and  succulent,  however,  it  is  necessary  to 
pinch  them,  or  the  first  heavy  wind  may  break  them  off  (see  Fig.  5,  c). 

Pinching  consists  of  the  removal  of  1  or  2  inches  of  growth  at  the 
extreme  tip  of  the  shoot.  This  delays  the  growth  in  length  temporarily 
and  gives  the  shoot  time  to  strengthen  its  tissues  before  its  length  gives 
too  much  leverage  to  the  wind.  This  pinching  usually  has  to  be 
repeated  at  least  once. 

Pinching  may  be  replaced  by  topping  a  few  weeks  later,  but  the  latter 
is  somewhat  weakening  to  the  vine. 

In  all  summer  pruning — that  is,  removal  of  green  shoots  and  leaves  — 
of  young  vines,  two  things  should  be  kept  in  mind:  First,  that  all 
summer  pruning  is  weakening;  second,  that  the  object  of  summer  prun- 
ing of  young  vines  is  to  direct  the  growth  as  much  as  possible  into 
those  parts  which  are  to  become  permanent  portions  of  the  mature 
vine.  The  weakening  effect  is  almost  nil  if  the  shoots  or  tips  are 
removed  when  they  are  very  small,  but  may  be  very  serious  if  large 
shoots  are  removed  or  heavily  topped.  When  a  large  shoot  covered 
with  leaves  is  removed  it  is  a  total  loss  to  the  vine.  When  a  small 
shoot  is  removed  the  food  materials  which  would  have  gone  into  that 
shoot  are  diverted  to  the  shoots  that  remain,  and  the  vigor  and  size  of 
the  latter  are  increased. 


154 


UNIVERSITY     OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


llllRI)    YEAH. 

Winter  Pruning. — After  the  leaves  have  fallen  at  the  end  of  the  third 
summer  every  vine  should  have  a  well-formed,  straight  stem  with  two, 
three,  or  more  canes  growing  from  the  upper  part,  and  the  formation  of 
the  "head"  or  crown  should  commence.  Any  vines  which  have  not 
been  brought  to  this  condition  must  be  pruned  like  two-  or  one-year- 
old  vines,  as  the  ease  may  be. 

If  the  work  up  to  this  point  has  been  well  done,  the  formation  of  the 
head  is  a  simple  matter.     It  consists  in  leaving  two.  three,  or  four  spurs, 


FJG.  6.    Three-year-old  vines  after  pruning. 


a.  A  verage  vine  with  two  spurs. 

b.  Vigorous  vines  with  three  spur:- 

removed  the  following  year. 

c.  Vigorous  vine  with  three  spurs. 


th,e  lowest  of  which  is  to  be 


arranged  as  symmetrically  as  possible  near  the  top  of  the  vine.     The 
■  nger    the   vine,   as   evidenced  by   the  number,   length,   and    thick- 
of  the  canes,  the  larger  the  number  of  spurs  and  buds  that  should 
be  Left. 

A  spur  consists  of  the  basal  portion  of  a  cane,  and  normally  of  two 
full  internodes.  This  leaves  two  buds  besides  the  base  bud.  The 
number  of  bud-  to  Leave  on  a  spur  depends  on  the  strength  or  thickness 
of  the  cane  from  which  the  -pur  is  made.  A  thin,  or  weak,  cane  should 
lit  back  to  one  bud  or  even  to  the  base  bud.  A  strong  cane,  on  the 
other  hand,  should  be  Left  with  three  buds  besides  the  base  bud. 

The  pruning  of  each  vine  requires  judgment,  and  it  is  impossible  to 


Bulletin  193.  PRUNING  THE  SULTANINA.  155 

give  an  inflexible  rule  to  follow.  The  ideal  of  a  perfect  vine  should  be 
kept  in  mind  and  each  vine  pruned  as  nearly  in  accordance  with  this 
ideal  as  circumstances  permit.  Fig.  6  and  the  illustration  on  the  cover 
represent  nearly  perfect  three-year-old  vines  consisting  of  two  or  three 
symmetrically  placed  spurs  of  two  buds  each  near  the  top  of  the  stem. 
Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  leave  a  spur  lower  down  (see  Fig.  6,  6). 
This  spur  will  be  removed  the  following  year  after  it  has  produced  two 
or  three  bunches  of  grapes.  Sometimes  a  vine  may  be  very  vigorous 
but  have  only  two  canes  properly  placed  for  making  spurs.  In  this 
case  the  spurs  should  be  left  longer — three  buds  and  even  in  extreme 
cases  four  buds  long. 


PRUNING  THE  SULTANINA.* 

This  variety  has  shown  itself  extremely  irregular  in  bearing  in  many 
vineyards  of  California.  The  variations  in  the  crop  of  different  years 
in  the  same  vineyard,  of  adjacent  vineyards  in  the  same  district,  and 
of  different  vines  in  the  same  vineyard  are  very  much  greater  than  is 
usual  with  most  other  varieties.  The  cause  of  this  seems  to  be  due,  in 
great  part  at  least,  to  defective  pruning. 

If  we  inquire  into  the  history  of  any  Sultanina  vineyard  we  find  very 
commonly  the  following  sequence  of  events:  During  the  first  four,  five 
or  six  years  the  vines  were  pruned  short,  grew  with  extraordinary 
vigor,  but  produced  very  few  grapes.  The  following  year  the  owner, 
hearing  that  long  pruning  was  necessary,  left  two,  three,  four,  or  more 
canes  four  or  five  feet  long  and  tied  them  up  vertically  to  a  high  stake. 
This  usually  resulted  in  a  large  crop.  The  same  method,  as  nearly  as 
practicable,  was  followed  during  subsequent  years,  with  gradually 
diminishing  success,  until  about  the  third  year  of  long  pruning  the 
crops  had  become  unsatisfactory  again. 

The  reason  for  this  sequence  of  events  is  easy  to  comprehend  when 
we  understand  the  principles  of  long  pruning  and  the  special  charac- 
teristics of  the  Sultanina. 

This  variety  bears  well  only  on  long  canes,  so  that  so  long  as  short 
pruning  is  practiced  the  crops  are  unsatisfactory.  The  first  year  in 
which  long  canes  are  left  the  crop  is  good,  because  a  large  proportion 
of  the  canes  tied  up  consist  of  bearing  wood.  Provision  is  seldom-made, 
however,  for  the  growth  of  new  canes  from  the  stump  to  furnish  bearing 
wood  for  the  following  years.  The  result  is,  that  after  the  second  or 
third  year  all  the  bearing  wood  is  at  the  top  of  the  stake,  and  the  vine 
must  be  pruned  short  again  or  suckers   and  watersprouts  left  as  long 

*This  is  the  correct  name  of  the  "Thompson's  Seedless." 


156  UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION. 

canes.     Whichever  of  these  two   alternatives  is  chosen  the  result  will 
be  unsatisfactory. 

A  common  condition  of  a  Sultanina  vine  after  the  first  year  of  long 


FIG.  7.    Sultanina  vine  showing  effect  of  tying  fruit  canes  in  a  vertical  position. 
(From  a  photograph.) 

.'•kers  and  watersprouts.    F.  Strong  fruit  wood.    /.  Weak  fruit  wood. 
C.  Fruit  canee  of  the  previous  year  which  have  just  borne  a  crop. 

pruning  is  shown    in    Fig.  7.     If  the   fruit  canes  (C,  C)  of  the  previous 

years   are   removed,  nothing  remains  but  the  unfruitful  suckers  and 

irsprouts  (8,  8).     If  the  old  fruit   canes  (C,  C)  are  left  there  is  an 


Bulletin  193. 


PRUNING   THE   SULTANINA. 


157 


abundance  of  fruit  wood  (F,  F),  but  it  is  so  near  the  top  of  the  stake 
that  if  fruit  canes  are  left  there  is  nothing  to  which  to  tie  them.  If  this 
fruit  wood  is  left  and  pruned  short  we  get  a  vine  like  that  shown  in 
Fig.  8,  which  is  worse  than  an  ordinary  short-pruned  vine. 

This  condition  may  be  avoided  for  a  year  or  two  if,  besides  the  fruit 


FIG.  8.    Last  stage  of  a  Sultanina  vine  which  has  been  pruned  long  and  the 
canes  tied  up  vertically. 


canes  (C,  C),  we  leave  also  some  short  spurs  of  one  or  two  buds  on  the 
main  stump.  The  canes  from  these  spurs  will  consist  of  fruit  wood 
and  they  may  be  used  for  fruit  canes  the  following  year.  Unfortu- 
nately these  spurs  are  so  shaded  by  the  foliage  on  the  fruit  canes  that 
they  do  not  always  produce  vigorous  wood,  and  finally  they  fail  to  grow 
at  all. 


15S 


M\  ERS1  CI      OF     ( '  A  1 .1  FORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


Two  methods  have  been  successfully  u>rd  to  insure  the  growth  of  new 
fruit  wood  every  year  in  a  position  where  it  can  be  utilized.  The  first 
consists  in  bending  the  fruit  canes  into  a  circle,  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  9. 
This  diminishes  the  tendency  of  the  sap  of  the  vine  to  go  to  the  end  of 
the  fruit  canes.     The  consequence  is  that  more  shoots  start  on  the  lower 

parts  of  the  fruit  canes. 
All  the  shoots  on  these 
canes  are  made  weaker 
and  more  fruitful  by  the 
bending,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  sap  pressure  is 
increased  and  causes 
strong  shoots  to  start 
from  the  wood  spurs  left 
near  the  bases  of  the 
fruit  canes.  These  shoots 
are  used  for  fruit  canes 
at  the  following  winter 
pruning,  and  new  wood 
spurs  are  then  left  for  the 
next  year. 

The  tying  and  bending 
of  the  fruit  canes  require 
great  care,  and  repeated 
suckering  and  removal 
of  watersprouts  are 
necessary  to  insure  a 
strong  growth  of  replac- 
ing canes  on  the  wood 
spurs.  This  method  can 
be  used  successfully  only 
by  skillful  hands. 

The  other  method  re- 
quires some  form  of 
trellis  The  most  prac- 
ticable trellis  is  a  wire 
stretched  along  the  rows 
at  about  \\  or  2  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the 
Boil.  For  very  vigorous  vines  in  rich  soil  a  second  wire  12  inches  above 
the  first  is  advisable. 

The  pruning  is  the  same  as  for  the  method  just  described.  The  fruit 
canes,  however,  instead  of  being  benl  in  a  circle  and  tied  to  the  stake, 
are  placed  in  a  horizontal  position  and  tied  to  the  wire.  The  horizontal 
position    has   the   same   effect   as  curving  in  promoting  the  starting  of 


FIG.  9.    Showing  method  of  bending  fruit  canes  to 
growthoi  shoots  from  replacing  spurs. 


Bulletin  193. 


PRUNING   THE   SULTANINA. 


159 


more  shoots  on  the  fruit  canes  and  the  consequent  production  of  more 
bunches  of  grapes.  At  the  same  time  the  buds  on  the  wood  spurs  are 
forced  to  start,  and  not  being  shaded  they  tend  to  grow  vigorously.  It 
is  best  to  tie  the  shoots  from  the  wood  spurs   in  a  vertical  position  to 


1  \ 

the  stake,  and   they  should  not  be  topped.     This  is  a  modification  of 
what  is  known  as  the  Guyot  system  of  pruning,  and  is  not  only  theo- 
retically correct,  but  is  easy  to  explain  to  pruners,  and  can  be  carried 
out  much  more  perfectly  than  the  first  method  with  ordinary  labor. 
Whatever  system  of   winter  pruning  is  adopted  with   the  Sultanina, 


160  UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION. 

careful  summer  pruning,  suckering,  sprouting,  and  topping  are  neces- 
sary for  the  best  results.  This  variety  has  a  tendency  to  send  out 
large  numbers  of  suckers  from  below  ground  and  watersprouts  from 
the  old  wood.  These  shoots  are  usually  sterile,  grow  vigorously,  and 
unless  removed  in  time  divert  the  energies  of  the  vine  from  the  fruit 
and  fruit  shoots.  Two  or  three  times  during  the  spring  the  vineyard 
should  be  gone  over  carefully  and  all  sterile  shoots  which  are  not 
needed  to  balance  the  vine  or  to  replace  weak  or  missing  arms  should 
be  removed.  This  removal  of  shoots  should  be  done  in  such  a  way 
that  no  shoot  longer  than  12  inches  is  ever  removed.  If  the  water- 
sprouts  are  allowed  to  grow  large  their  removal  weakens  the  vine.  The 
shoots  which  are  to  give  fruit  canes  for  the  following  year  should  not 
be  topped.  The  shoots  from  the  horizontal  fruit  canes  on  the  trellises, 
however,  will  set  their  fruit  better  and  are  less  likely  to  be  broken  by 
the  wind  if  they  are  pinched  or  topped  early. 

No  summer  pruning  of  any  kind  should  be  done  while  the  vines  are 
blossoming,  or  for  a  week  or  ten  days  before  the  blossoms  open. 


STATION    PUBLICATIONS. 

STATION  PUBLICATIONS  AVAILABLE  FOR  DISTRIBUTION. 


REPORTS. 


1896.  Report   of    the    Viticultural    Work   during    the   seasons    1S87-93,    with    data 

regarding  the  Vintages  of  1894-95. 

1897.  Resistant   Vines,    their    Selection,    Adaptation,    and    Grafting.      Appendix    to 

Viticultural  Report  for  1896. 

1898.  Partial  Report  of  Work  of  Agricultural   Experiment   Station   for   the  years 

1895-96  and  1896-97. 
1900.     Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  the  year  1897-98. 

1902.  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  1898-1901. 

1903.  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  1901-1903. 

1904.  Twenty-second  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  1903-1904. 

TECHNICAL  BULLETINS— ENTOMOLOGICAL  SERIES. 

Vol.  1,  No.  1 — Wing  Veins  of  Insects. 

No.  2 — Catalogue  of  the  Ephydridae. 

BULLETINS. 

Reprint.  Endurance  of  Drought  in  Soils  of  the  Arid  Region. 

No.  128.  Nature,  Value  and  Utilization  of  Alkali  Lands,  and  Tolerance  of  Alkali. 
(Revised  and  Reprint,  1905.) 

133.  Tolerance  of  Alkali  by  Various  Cultures. 

140.  Lands  of  the  Colorado  Delta  in  Salton  Basin,  and  Supplement. 

141.  Deciduous  Fruits  at  Paso  Robles. 

142.  Grasshoppers  in  California. 
144.  The  Peach-Worm. 

147.  Culture  Work  of  the  Substations. 

148.  Resistant  Vines  and  their  Hybrids. 

149.  California   Sugar   Industry. 

150.  The  Value  of  Oak  Leaves  for  Forage. 

151.  Arsenical  Insecticides. 

152.  Fumigation  Dosage. 

153.  Spraying  with  Distillates. 

154.  Sulfur  Sprays  for  Red  Spider. 
156.  Fowl  Cholera. 

158.  California  Olive  Oil;    its  Manufacture. 

159.  Contribution  to  the  Study  of  Fermentation. 

160.  The  Hop  Aphis. 

161.  Tuberculosis  in  Fowls.      (Reprint.) 

162.  Commercial  Fertilizers.      (Dec.  1,  1904.) 

163.  Pear  Scab. 

164.  Poultry  Feeding  and  Proprietary  Foods.      (Reprint.) 

165.  Asparagus  and  Asparagus  Rust  in  California. 

166.  Spraying  for  Scale  Insects. 

167.  Manufacture  of  Dry  Wines  in  Hot  Countries. 

168.  Observations  on  Some  Vine  Diseases  in  Sonoma  County. 

169.  Tolerance  of  the  Sugar  Beet  for  Alkali. 

170.  Studies  in  Grasshopper  Control. 

171.  Commercial  Fertilizers.      (June  30,  1905.) 

172.  Further  Experience  in  Asparagus  Rust  Control. 

173.  Commercial  Fertilizers.     (December,  1905.) 

174.  A  New  Wine-Cooling  Machine. 

175.  Tomato  Diseases  in  California. 

176.  Sugar  Beets  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley. 

177.  A  New  Method  of  Making  Dry  Red  Wine. 

178.  Mosquito  Control. 

179.  Commercial  Fertilizers.      (June,  1906.) 

180.  Resistant  Vineyards. 

181.  The  Selection  of  Seed- Wheat. 

182.  Analysis  of  Paris  Green  and  Lead  Arsenate.     Proposed  Insecticide  Law. 

183.  The  California  Tussock-moth. 

1S4.  Report  of  the  Plant  Pathologist  to  July  1,  1906. 

185.  Report  of  Progress  in  Cereal  Investigations. 

186.  The  Oidium  of  the  Vine. 

187.  Commercial   Fertilizers.      (January,   1907.) 

188.  Lining  of  Ditches  and  Reservoirs  to  Prevent  Seepage  Losses. 

189.  Commercial  Fertilizers.      (June.  1907.) 

190.  The  Brown  Rot  of  the  Lemon. 

191.  California  Peach  Blight. 

192.  Insects  Injurious  to  the  Vine  in  California. 


UNIVERSITY     OF    CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


CIRCULARS. 


No.   1. 

n 

O. 

4. 
5. 

10. 

11. 
12. 
13. 
15. 

16. 
17. 

IS. 
10. 
20. 
21. 


Texas  Fever, 
Blackleg. 

Hoc'    Cholera. 

Anthrax. 

Contagious   Abortion  in   Cows. 

Remedies  for  Insects. 

Asparagus   Rust  ' 

Reading  Course  in   Economic 

Entomology.      ( Revision. ) 
Fumiuation   Practice. 
Silk  Culture. 

The  Culture  of  the  Sugar  Beet. 
Recent  Problems  in  Agriculture. 

What  a  University  Farm  is  For. 
Notes  on  Seed-Wheat. 
Why      Agriculture      Should     be 

Taught  in  the  Public  Schools. 
Caterpillars  on  Oaks. 
Disinfection  of  Stables. 
Reading   Course   in   Irrigation. 
The  Advancement  of  Agricultural 

Education. 
Defecation    of    Must    for    White 

Wine. 


No.  23. 
24. 
25. 

2Q. 


29. 


30. 
31. 


32. 
33. 


Pure  Yeast  in  Wineries. 

Olive  Pickling. 

Suggestions  Regarding  Exam- 
ination of  Lands. 

Selection  and  Preparation  of 
Vine  Cuttings. 

Marly  Subsoils  and  the  Chlo- 
rosis or  Yellowing  of  Citrus 
Trees. 

A  Preliminary  Progress  Report 
of  Cereal  Investigations, 
1905-07. 

Preliminary  Announcement  Con- 
cerning Instruction  in  Prac- 
tical Agriculture  upon  the 
University  Farm,  Davisville, 
California. 

White  Fly  in  California. 

The  Agricultural  College  and  Its 
Relationship  to  the  Scheme  of 
National   Education. 

White  Fly  Eradication. 

Packing  Prunes  in  Cans.  Cane 
Sugar  vs.  Beet  Sugar. 


Copies  may  be  had  on  application  to  Director  of  Experiment  Station,  Berkeley,  Cal. 


